Crowders Mountain PoInts of Interest
Climbs Index

(information gathered from www.crowdersmountain.com website)

Climbing Overview, Crowders Mountain side
Main

Hidden Wall

Hidden Wall Monoliths

Main Wall
Main Wall - East Face

Wrestling ~38 ft high

Practice Wall ~76 ft high

David's Castle ~114 ft high

Rising Sun ~57 ft high

Red Wall (left side & right side) ~114 ft high

Resurgance Walls

Plane Above Head ~38 ft high
Place Above Head

New Policy ~38 ft high

RawlHide ~38 ft high

TrundleSaurus ~57 ft high

Main Wall - West Face

First Wall ~38 ft high

Car Wall ~38 ft high

Two Pitch ~114 ft high

Fortress & Gumbies Roof ~57 ft high

Middle Finger ~114 ft high

Nuke The Whales ~38 ft high

Climb Wall		Climb Route	Climb Difficulty

Hidden Wall	a small sport crag with short routes. fairly short approach. Other Sport
North		Absent From The Body	5.9+
		Airview Slab	5.8
		Black Sand Beaches	5.11d
		Doug's Dihedral	5.11 R
		Dr. Jeckyl's Hide	5.9
		Dr. Jeckyl's Ride	5.10a
		Lakeview Slab	5.7
		Mandatory Action	5.10
		Mandatory Reaction	5.10
		Path To Extinction	5.10
		Pteranodon	5.11a
		The Carnivore	5.13
		The Snag	5.13a
		Toxic Shock	5.11d
		Toxic Shock Direct	5.9
South		Antrax	5.12
		Belly Crawl	5.9
		Dixie Fury	5.12
		Elastic Rebound Theory	5.11d
		Genesis	5.8
		Mudbone	5.12d
		Perplexus	5.11c
		Rockafari	5.10
		Slabsters Lament	5.12b
		Slabsters Lament Direct	5.13
		The Bolter Problem	5.10
		The Whining	5.12a
		Top That	5.8
		Top That Direct	5.10
		Waspafarian	5.10
		Whining Again	5.12a
Monoliths
		Mono-A
		Mono-B
		Mono-C

Main Wall - East Face

David's Castle & David's Castle Wall	David's Castle ========== There are three different sets of double bolts at regular intervals at the top if you want to set up top ropes. Nice sport climbing on the outside of David's Castle. Just Trad and Toproping on the "in" side. Good selection of climbs from the Nose (an easy 5.5 trad climb) to the Stupid Roof (rated 5.10a, climbs like a 5.9). Many excellent photo ops. Quartzite Trad David's Castle Wall ============== Very vertical wall around the backside of David's Castle. Difficult to toprope although some will top belay Caterpillar(5.7). Has two excellent sport routes (5.10) as well as several hard (5.10+) trad routes. Quartzite Sport/Trad	Between The Betwix	5.10
		Catepillar	5.7
		Electra	5.10+
		Energy Czar	5.11a
		Four Play	5.4
		Golden Shower	5.9
		Handle With Care	5.6
		Instant Karma	5.10
		Instant Karma Direct	5.10d
		Nuclear Cottage Cheese	5.9+
		Ooga Chocka	5.8
		Overhang Direct	5.8
		Pink Flamingo	5.11a
		Psychotic Reaction	5.10
		Respirator	5.8 R
		Rocky's Roof	5.10
		Sadistic Rhythm	5.9
		Stupid Roof	5.10b
		Temporary Tradition	5.11a
		The Dish	5.9 R
		The Nose	5.5
		Two Step	5.10
		What Else Is There To Do	5.7/8

Practice Wall	Very social area. Usually crowded. Most people TR here Quartzite Top Rope	Another Brick in the Wall	5.10d
		Black Flag	5.10d
		Black Flag Direct	5.13
		Brick in the Wall	5.10d
		Burn Crack *	5.10
		Gastonia Crack *	5.4
		Klingon Traverse	5.12
		Mike's Crack	5.5
		Playground *	5.9+
		So It Goes	5.8+
		Skunk Pie *	5.12
		The Wall	5.10
Rawlhide	Part of the Resurgance Walls	Aborcide	5.8/11
		Cro-Magnon Crack	5.5
		Rawlhide	5.10
Red Wall	Keep walking past David's Castle wall and take the access gulley downwards. Its the next wall (the Left Side) past the break. Sometimes poor rock with a bunch of plants and junk; however some great sport climbs. If you're looking to get away from the crowds, hit Red Wall. Fairly long sport routes form 5.6 - 5.12. Most routes have fixed anchors. Difficult to set up TRs w/o leading. Quartzite Trad Morning Sun	911	5.8
		Axis	5.11
		Beer Wolf	5.9+
		Desperately Seeking Juggage	5.11b
		Fashion	5.12b
		Jumping Junipers	5.9
		Kitty Litter	5.9+
		Mellow Fellow	5.8
		Opinionated	5.9+
		Red Red Wine	5.11b
		Red Wall Chimney	5.3
		Scramble My Feedback	5.10
		Silence the Critics	5.12
		Spring Break	5.8
		Spring Fever	5.7
		Spring Fling	5.8
		Spring Swing	5.8
		Target Practice	5.8
		T.K.O.	5.12a
		Tom Tom Club	5.9 R
		Welcome To Crowders	5.12a
Resurgance Walls	This area is part of the Resurgence Walls. A five minute hike past the end of Red Wall will take you to a wall with a couple fun, steep sport climbs.	Plane Above Your Head	5.10a
Rising Sun Wall	Great early morning trad Quartzite Trad	60 Seconds Over Tokoyo	5.10
		Ask Mr. Science	5.9+
		Budda Bulge	5.10
		Yokohama Mama	5.10
Wrestling Wall	Hidden area by David's Castle, walk down the trail back towards practice wall.	Championship Wrestling	5.8
		In This Corner	5.5
		Main Event	5.9

Main Wall - West Face

Car Wall	Located on the backside of the 2-pitch wall Quartzite Top Rope	Beer Can Alley	5.8
		Drive On	5.8
		Entertainment For Men	5.9
		Firestone	5.10
		Flat Tire	5.10
		Scorched Earth Defenses	5.10d

First Wall		Beer Can Alley	5.5
First Wall		Safety Dance	5.6
Gumbie's Roof	good practice for big wall.small sport for the strong willed.good 20ft of negitive roof good holds and is bolted for maximum protection Other Sport	Aerial Act *	5.10
		Eye Sockets *	5.10d
		Gumbies Go Home	5.10
Middle Finger Wall	Just right of the Two Pitch Wall is a cliff almost as tall. As with Two-Pitch Wall beware of rotten rock Quartzite Trad	Corner Direct	5.5
		Curtain Corner	5.5
		Flexible Flyer	5.9+ R
		Iron Curtain *	5.7
		Middle Finger *	5.7
		Pocket of Like'n	5.7
		The Balcony *	5.5
Middle Finger Backside Wall	Easily seen from Gumby's Roof or The Fortress Wall. Most people set up top rope, but could be trad. Quartzite Top Rope Afternoon Sun	Pick-A-Dilly Prow	5.11
		Pleasant Dreams *	5.8+
		The Bear	5.7
Monolith		?	?
New Policy Wall		Algebra	5.7
		New Policy	5.10d
		One to the 1st Power	5.10d
Nuke the WhalesWall	Small bit of wall with 4 decent climbs. If you are staring at the roof at Gumbie's, go right and around the corner. Quartzite Top Rope	Loyal Order of the Toad	5.7
		Nuke the Whales	5.6
		Orange Corner	5.5
		Save the Wails	5.7
Plane Above Your Head		Plane Above Your Head	5.10
The Fortress (Wall)	Just around the corner from Gumby's Roof. Short climbs with fair quality rock. Quartzite Top Rope All Day Shade	Aerial Act	5.10d
		Big Crack	5.3
		Direct *	5.9+
		Eye Sockets	5.10b
		Finger Crack *	5.6
		Fortress Fingers	5.10
Trundlesaurus	Located in Northeast portion of the resurgance walls.	Christmas Present	5.8
		Dewey Used To Love It	5.10
		Just Like Old Times	5.8
		No Experience Necessary	5.6
		Passing Out Wolf Tickets	5.10
		Trundlesaurus	5.10d
		Tyrannosaurus Rox	5.10
Two Pitch Wall	The tallest cliff at Crowders Mountain. It is the large wall on your left as you hike the approach trail. Probably the only area for multi-pitch (2) climbing. Very rotten rock especially near the top, but despite prevailing sentiment can be well protected due to the abundant horizontal cracks on this face Quartzite Sport/Trad	Cambodian Holiday	5.9
		Destination Variation	5.8+
		Double Naught Spy	5.9 R
		Eat A Peach	5.7
		Presidentiation	5.8
		Secret Service	5.10+
		The Intimidator	5.8
		Trash Compactor	5.5
		Two Pitch	5.4

DSR Boulders	Bouldering area near the Ridgeline Trail From I-85 take Dixon School Road exit 5(?) go SW(?). Turn left on Bethlehem Rd. to Crowder's Mtn. State Park Boulders Access parking area on the right. Register at kiosk behind visitor center. Follow trail to small boulder field on the right, or continue on to large boulders on the other side of Bethlehem Rd. watch for trail to right, miss it and you end up in SC. You may also walk back out the road and back to the left on Bethlehem Rd. to access the trail to the large boulders. Bouldering

Suggested Climbs:

Options: Top Rope, Sport, Traditional

Middle Finger Wall: Middle Finger 5.7, The Balcony 5.5, Iron Curtain 5.7, Fortress Wall, Gumbies Roof, Middle Finger Backside: Pleasant Dreams 5.8+, Fortress Wall Finger Crack 5.6 and Direct 5.9+, Eye Sockets 5.10+ (key hold now broken) Practice Wall: Burn Crack 5.10, Slimebelly Snakeass Sodhole Skunkpie 5.12-, Gastonia Crack 5.4, Playground 5.9+ David's Castle: Ooga Chocka 5.8

---
---

Crowders Mountain PoInts of Interest Climbs Index

Crowders Mountain PoInts of Interest
Climbs Index